Highlights: Watching the sun dip below the horizon in the foothills of the Himalayas in Mussoorie, enjoying an Indian feast under the stars in the Thar Desert and wandering through the vast and hilly tea plantations in Munnar, Kerala.

Lowlights: The traffic that you’ll face both on foot and in a vehicle, including cows, goats, dogs, people, tuk tuks, motorbikes and cars. Always watch your step! The amount of pollution and lack of hygiene can also be confronting. 

Wardrobe: Modest, loose and boho – think long skirts, harem pants, oversized shirts and scarves.

Wares: India is home ware heaven – there are dhurries (thin flat woven rugs), copper and brass tea pots and kitchen ware, handwoven throws, covers and clothing, blue pottery, marble candle holders, the list goes on…

new Delhi

The capital of India – New Delhi’s roads are a chaotic mix of foot traffic, cows, motorbikes, rickshaws and cars, and the sound of honking is the sound track of the city. A taxi driver once said ‘you need three things to drive in Delhi - a fast foot on the brake, a bold hand on the horn and a lot of good luck!’

There is so much to see and do and the amount of activity happening in every square inch of this city can be an assault to the senses. To the north of the city centre in Old Delhi, you’ll find Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in Delhi built in the 17th century. The chaos of Old Delhi surrounds the mosque, and you’ll walk through all sorts of markets, people and animals to reach it’s steps. It’s dusty red colour and Islamic architecture are stunning, and after removing your shoes, you’ll be able to climb the minarets to see the melting pot of activity below. Walk to the front of the mosque and admire the detailed design and chandeliers hanging from the tall ceilings. 

Take a wander through the streets or jump on a tuk tuk and head west from the mosque to explore the chaos of Chandni Chowk – a central marketplace selling everything imaginable. This ‘Moonlight Square’ was also built in the 17th Century, designed by a princess in a half moon shape with canals and pool in it’s centre. It was once the location of grand processions, and is now full of tourists, locals, bicycles, tuk tuks, cars, small stores with silver, carts full of food, the smell of spiced chai, cloth markets, homeware stores and everything else! Explore the streets off the main market and you’ll find colourful and decorated doorways of local residents. 

To the south of the city is Humayun’s Tomb, built for the Emperor Humayun by his widow when he passed away in 1572. The architecture of the tomb was unique at it’s time  - a mix of Persian and Indian influences, with red sandstone and white marble. In the same complex surrounded by greenery and trees is Isa Khan’s Tomb – octagonal in shape with walls, mosque and a gateway all part of it’s stunning structure. 

The Lodhi Gardens and Khan Market are also slightly south of the city. Khan Market is much higher end than Chandni Chowk, with it’s cafes, retailers, deli’s and street art. As you head back to the city centre, pass through India Gate – a war memorial – and head to Connaught Place to enjoy the shopping and cafes, particularly Kwality Café, with it’s old world charm.

Agra

A four hour drive south of New Delhi is Agra, home to one of the new wonders of the world – The Taj Mahal. The history of the Taj Mahal is rich – the structure itself was built by an Emperor in honour of his late wife. Apparently, it was her last wish to have her body housed in the most beautiful tomb upon her death and this wish was fulfilled. The Taj Mahal houses both the Emperor and his wife’s tombs, and it made out of stunning white marble, with precious stones source from all over the world, carved into the marble. The symmetry of the gateway to the Taj, the guesthouse, mosque and gardens and the Taj itself is striking, and the view is uninterrupted as no other buildings were allowed to be constructed around the Taj. The calligraphy is also inlaid with black marble, and with Islamic quotes. The Taj takes inspiration from other buildings like Humayun’s Tomb, and is open some nights, so viewers can see the moonlight strike the stone, creating a magical aurora around the tomb. 

It’s best the visit the Taj in the morning when it’s less crowded. Try to organize a guide and agree where to meet prior to arriving as it can be overwhelming trying to find your way around when you arrive. The Agra Fort, or Red Fort, is a short tuk tuk ride away and stands majestic, made from a deep red sandstone, strongly securing the premises inside it’s wall. The fort is full of history, battles and many courtyards and halls with intricate designs and many stories to tell.

kochi

‘God’s own country’ is what they call Kerala, a state to the south of India, and as you start to explore its backwaters, hill country and history, it’s easy to see why. The region has a tropical feel and has been richly influenced by the Dutch, Portuguese and British. What stands out as you drive through its streets and towns is the religious heritage the British left with its Christian and Catholic Churches, more numerous it seems compared to it’s temples.
The other visible remnant of it’s past is the architecture if its homes and bungalows - it’s colonial style. The people are very warm and welcoming, and education is highly sought after with the region enjoying nearly a 100% literacy rate of which they are proud.

Kochi is Kerala’s main town, with its dusty streets scattered with heritage homes, shops and home stays. Fort Kochi is a main landmark and quite simply is a military base but close by, you’ll find the famous Chinese Fishing Nets, brought to Kerala by a Chinese explorer in the 14th century. These nets line the water and it’s spoils line the small cement boardwalk in stalls scattered for some metres. Inter dispersed are other stalls selling jewellery and other small items. This area is quite crowded with fishermen, tourists, shop owners and cats, with birds circling overhead. St Francis Church, the oldest and first European church in India, is walking distance from the Chinese Fishing Nets, and is beautiful in its simplicity, both inside and out. The Mattancherry Area, about a 40 minute walk through the busy streets of Kochi, or a 15 minute tuk tuk ride, is home to Mattancherry Palace, the Paradesi Synagogue, Jew Town and Spice Market which is an ode to the region’s various foreign influences. If you choose to take a tuk tuk around Kochi, make sure you’re clear about where you want to go and how much you’re willing to pay before jumping on, otherwise you’ll be taken on quite the journey!

About a five-hour drive from Kochi is the Munnar Hill Station, a tea plantation started by the British decades ago. The drive to Munnar takes you through various small villages and towns, and past stunning large and small bungalows with Chinese, India, Dutch, British and Portuguese influence. As you start to ascend the roads that were created for British jeeps to transport the tea to the towns for export, you’ll see waterfalls and small shops here and there catered for the tourists that come from both India and abroad. You’ll start to see glimpses of the tea plantations here and there as you near The National Park. Given its government controlled, you’ll need to pay a fee to enter. From the car park, the park buses will take you up an exhilarating journey through the plantation to the top, where you can enjoy a short walk to the lookout. The view is beautiful, with rolling hills of green and whispy clouds sailing by.

One of the main attractions Kerala is known for is its back-water cruises. Enjoy a short 2-hour cruise at sunset from Bolgatty Island to Fort Kochi and back, with the Chinese Fishing Nets forming stunning silhouettes against the horizon and old buildings and seaside hotels coming to life with lights in the night.

Jaipur

Known as ‘The Pink City,’ Jaipur is located in the state of Rajasthan and is home to the ‘Rajas’ or princes of India. And it’s easy to see the remnants of the Rajas who ruled India for centuries. The opulent City Palace tells of this history – it’s a maze of windows, rooms, tiles, architecture, galleries and history on display for the curious to explore and imagine a world long gone. The Peacock Gate is one of the main stand out features of the Palace, with its elaborately painted colour and detail surrounding the entry and exit way.

An equally stunning feature is the Hawa Mahal, at the back of the palace, and best admired from across the street at dusk. The ‘Palace of Winds’ is full of small windows and lattice work, which allowed the breeze to float into the palace, and the women of the palace to look out upon the street below without being seen. At sunset, the red and pink sandstone turns into even warmer hues and the wall is lit up presenting a stunning backdrop against the sky and streets below, which are alive with markets displaying their wares until well into the evening.  

The Amber Fort of Jaipur’s walls snake their way up, down and around the hills of surrounding the city. Inside the fort reveals gardens, squares, halls of splendour and colour. Elephants make their way up and down the entrances into the fort, and it’s windows allow you to look out onto the mountains and view below. The Tiger Fort is also close by, as well as Stepwells that provide a glimpse into how water used to be collected, as well as how shade was provided against the heat at the height of summer. The Man Sagar Lake is on the way back to Jaipur, and is the home of the Jal Mahal – The Water Palace. 

Visit Jantar Mantar to see astronomical instruments, and the Albert Hall Museum to understand the history of Rajasthan. Jaipur has beautiful eateries and boutique shopping areas including Anokhi, Fabindia, and Jaipur Modern. Make sure you drop into the Bar Palladio to enjoy not only the interior décor and gardens but also the food. 

Jaisalmer

Further west, in the middle of the Great Indian Desert or Thar Desert, and only a few hundred kilometres from the Pakistani border is Jaisalmer. This ‘Golden City’ is home to an Ancient Fort, Luxury Havelis, Gadasar Lake, and Vyas Chhatri sandstone tombs, and Desert Safaris. 

Travel just outside the town, scale a small hill and you’ll discover the Vyas Chhatri sandstone tombs. These tombs are like no other – each is it’s own small memorial, with a dome shaped roof and expertly carved from the sand stone. As the sun sets in the distance, watch the sandstone of the fort and the tombs paint the perfect silhouette. 

For those seeking adventure, take a jeep out to the Thar Desert, and then swap your seat for the back of a camel, trekking into the desert at dusk. Make sure dinner is included in your desert safari, as you’ll enjoy a meal of dhal, roti, rice and potato coupled with hot chai with nothing but the sound of the fire crackling and smoke rising into the sparkling night sky. 

Dehradun and Mussoorie

Way up north towards the Tibetan and Nepalese border is perhaps one of the best kept secrets of India – nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas is Dehradun and further north, Musoorie. The markets and food stalls of Dehradun are worth exploring but don’t miss heading up to Musoorie by the winding mountainous roads that can get hairy in places. 

Have a meal at Rokeby Manor, visit the Landour Bakehouse, take a walk up the paths with the distance smell of incense and Tibetan prayer flags flapping above you. The snow capped mountains of the Himalaya’s are easily seen from these mountain paths. Watching the sunset from up here is absolute magic.