Morocco
the gateway to Africa ….
Highlights: The traditional Moroccan Riads are a solace after long days spent exploring. The Jardin Majorelle is a celebration of French – Moroccan design. The Palaces are historic and architecturally beautiful. And don’t miss feasting on an authentic Moroccan Tagine.
Lowlights: Marrakech’s Medina isn’t a place for everyone - unless you have the energy, wits and stamina, the streets themselves are hard to navigate without getting overwhelmed. The heat at the height of summer can make exploring the Medina on foot quite unbearable. Be ware of some unsavoury characters that may lurk in squares.
Wardrobe: Summer is hot and while it is tempting to wear what you would back home, Morocco is a Muslim country so being conservative will make it easier to explore without unwanted attention.
Wares: Morocco is known for their interiors, architecture and design. Pick up a handira or Moroccan wedding blanket each with a unique design that can be used as a wall hanging or throw.
Morocco
Often referred to as the gateway to Africa, the city has a fascinating history which results in the culture you see today. For the last 40 years or so, the city has been romanticised by its early visitors - the French were some of the first to visit it shores - the majority of which were artists and poets seeking inspiration - and it soon became a hotspot for those daring enough to make the journey down and be greeted by the locals with ‘Welcome to Africa!’
Marakkesh
While Morocco is an exotic location to travel to, Marrakech is a city where you choose your own adventure. Do you stay inside or outside the Médina? Do you trust the locals when they try to direct you to certain locations or trust your instincts? Do you venture into the chaos of square and souks or stay in the comfort of your Riad and the local gardens and spas? Ultimately, the answer you have to these questions will determine the experience you have in this fascinating city.
The Medina
As you drive through the old Medina walls spanning a distance of 20 kms, a wonderfully chaotic world greets you. One of the main entrances takes you past the famed La Mamounia, a stunning hotel frequented by the likes of Winston Churchill, Alfred Hitchcock and many others. Visitors can enjoy a drink in its gardens and soak up the beauty. On the opposite side of the road, slightly further down, is the Koutoubia Mosque, it’s tall minaret a familiar part of the Marrakesh skyline. Take a stroll through it’s gardens and enjoy this central part of the old city.
Across from the mosque, you’ll find the main square of the medina - Jemaa el-Fnaa. The square is a hive of activity, especially at night when families gather, friends meet and the food stalls are open, lights glittering all around. The square can be overwhelming, not only due to the sheer amount of people and activity, but also due to some of the forceful vendors and other unsavoury characters.
Walking down to the south east of the square, crossing the streets and roads of the Medina and dodging horse drawn carriages, cars, motorcycles and people, you’ll soon come to the El Badi Palace. The remains of this palace leave visitors to imagine it’s beauty in it’s prime, with it’s large courtyards, sunken gardens, pools and columns. Small coloured tiles remain here and there, reminding guests of the vibrant palace it once was in the Saadian days. Climb up to the second floor of the palace to see a great view of the bustling city and squares below.
Close by is another palace – the Bahia Palace. Given it was built more recently than the El Badi, this palace is in stunning condition, with mosaics, fountains and colourful courtyards showing off the best of Moroccan architecture. It’s gardens are worth the visit, too, with orange and avocado trees hidden amongst the flora and greenery, providing welcome shade. Also found in the Medina is Le Jardin Secret, right off a small narrow street – a little oasis in the middle of the dusty maze of streets.
There is no shortage of beautiful Riads – traditional Moroccan houses built around central courtyards full of life with plants, lounge chairs, pools or fountains. After a long, hot day of exploring the chaotic streets of the Medina, which can be overwhelming for some, you start to truly understand the peace and solace found in the Riads of the Medina. Getting to the Riads in the Medina may be a challenge – work with the Riad owners to understand the best way to get to the Riad as this may include a car transfer to a certain point, then a precarious walk through narrow streets with a local worker helping haul any bags to the Riad in a small cart. Riad Adika, a family run Riad, is simply stunning - enjoy breakfast on the Riad’s rooftop, genuine and generous service from the local staff, and a delicious tangine dinner in the courtyard.
beyond medina walls
Snake your way through the Medina to the North, just outside of the Medina walls, and you’ll find yourself right amongst the fast-paced streets of Morocco – fruit carts form part of a makeshift marketplace, cars flying past, with locals calling out, directing you to the various tourist attractions in exchange for a tip.
A 25-minute walk away is Jardin Majorelle, a stunning garden curated by the great French artist Jacques Majorelle, full of exotic plants, unique landscaping, fountains, fish and birds. The garden attracts many visitors, and the lineup for tickets can be long, so go prepared. The garden contains a few additional attractions, including a deep Moroccan blue house, a Berber Museum and the Galerie Love – a collection of Yves Saint Laurent’s personally designed greeting cards that he created for family and friends every year, created around the idea of love.The garden was bought by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in the eighties, and there is a monument to Yves Saint Laurent in the garden.
The Yves Saint Laurent museum is close by, as well as chic and popular cafes such as Mykawa Majorelle and small boutique shops.
High Atlas Mountains
A trip to Morocco isn’t complete without a visit to the Atlas Mountains – a number of mountain ranges 2,500 km in length spanning three countries – Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria. The mountain ranges are diverse and so are the experiences they offer, depending on the amount of time travelers have. If in Marrakesh, the High Atlas Mountain range is the closest, home to the Tizi n’Tichka mountain pass which is the highest mountain pass in North Africa at an elevation of 2,260 m above sea level. The windy roads through the mountains and across the mountain pass aren’t for the faint hearted. Follow the old caravan trail and you’ll soon arrive at Ait Ben Haddou, which is a four-hour drive from Marrakech.
The Ksar of Aït-Ben-Haddou is considered the Gateway to the Sahara and while it is a UNESCO Heritage listed site, it has been made popular as a movie set for Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and many other cinema classics. The city itself is unique due to the intricate details of it’s houses, built close together using old Moroccan architecture with an earthy red adobe façade. The small city is surrounded by fortified red walls with grand entrance gates. While the city may lure travelers in with it’s Hollywood status, don’t expect to see authentic movie scenes and sets like the Gladiator arena. Instead, go to experience the unique architecture of an old Moroccan city.
The Atlas Mountains are home to the Berbers – the indigenous people of Morocco – and their villages. The majority of Moroccans are Berbers, many now live in the city and Medina due to work, with their families living hours away. They have their own flag and pride in the heritage, and some of the villages provide a unique insight into their way of life.
A word of caution – there are a lot of tours that operate trips to the Atlas Mountains. Pick the best but most genuine experience for yourself. The trips can be long with not a lot to see on the way, especially if travelling when it’s summer, so the surrounds are hot and dusty. Security should be front of mind if travelling to any isolated areas, or even if leaving the Medina early in the morning as some locals are out to get any tourists that may look lost or loaded.
Morocco is definitely a place where you choose your own adventure. And after a long day or couple of days on the road, travelling through the mountains and dusty desert caravan routes, the peace and solitude of the Moroccan Riad awaits…